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December 29, 2006

The Maya

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My favorite part of visiting Mexico is the people. Since I speak fairly fluent Spanish, I am able to communicate more so than when I visit other countries - although I am trying my best to learn a little French before Breanna and I visit France in May.

The girl pictured above is from San Cristobal de las Casas in Chiapas. She is ten and has traveled to the northern Yucatan town of Progreso with her grandma to sell exquisitely embroidered dresses and blouses that have been sewn in her town for generations. She said she doesn't remember how long they have been in the Yucatan. Even in a country like Mexico, there are degrees of poverty. Some of the poorest regions are the Mayan mountain villages of Chiapas, where it is quite common for young children to leave their home and school and travel hundreds of miles with relatives to sell textiles and other hand-made trinkets to tourists. We bought a blouse from this girl, whose name I forgot to ask. We wished we could have taken her back to her home and paid for her schooling.

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We saw this woman above in a small Mayan village. Knowing she was quite poor, I stopped and gave her some money and asked to take her picture. She only spoke Mayan other than for the Spanish word "caridad", which means charity. She asked if that money was what the money was for. I told her yes, and she seemed quite grateful. Trying to convey to her that I wanted to take her picture was another matter. I'm not sure she had ever seen a digital SLR camera. So in the end, she started off again and I captured her picture from behind.

December 28, 2006

Henequen and Cenotes

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Hacienda Cuzama

A necessary part of free market economies is change. Industries grow and industries die. Compassionate societies have safety nets to help those who are dislocated by dying industries adapt to the change. Shortsighted societies try to eliminate the dislocations altogether.

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Henequen Processing Equipment inside the Abandoned Hacienda

The Yucatan has gone through its own dislocation. For the past 100 years, a primary agriculatural product has been henequen. The fiber from the leaves of this agave plant was used for making rope. Thousands of campesinos worked the fields, processed the fibers and spun the rope.

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Henequen Plants

With the advent of synthetic twine, the henequen industry has been dying for years. The Mexican and Yucatecan State goverment artificially propped up the industry by paying the campesinos, but there was little market for the fiber. Finally, about six years ago payments to campesinos stopped.

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Sign Post Discouraging Littering

The campesinos in the pueblo Cuzama have adapted. The horse-drawn rail carts that used to carry loads of henequen now are full of tourists who are pulled past the abandoned henequen fields out to a series of cenotes, undergound freshwater sinkholes, perfect for swimming.

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Cenote

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Cenote

We took the cenote tour today. Delfino and his son Carlos were are drivers. They were quite gracious.

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Our Driver Delfino

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Delfino's Son Carlos

Delfino says he makes as much as when he was working the fields. It isn't much, but at least he can stay in his village with his family, rather than traveling each week to work in Cancun or leaving his family altogether and working in the United States.

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The only part of this new tourist enterprise that needs work is there is still only one track. So when a cart that is coming meets a cart that is going, one of the carts has to be lifted off the tracks so the other can pass.

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Car Passings


December 27, 2006

Flight of the Pigeons

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by LaPriel

We have spent our first night in Merida, Yucatan. As with all our prior trips to Mexico, rental car agencies continue to be a challenge. I'll spare you the details, but after repeated phone calls and visits to Budget's car rental office we were able to get a car a day late.

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by Camden

We took these pictures at the Central Plaza in Merida. Lots of people and lots of pigeons.

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December 24, 2006

Merry Christmas

I haven’t felt compelled to write the last few weeks. Writing for me is a need, but sometimes it wanes. Here in Idaho, the weather finally cooperated and dumped 5 or 6 inches of snow the last few days so we have a white Christmas. I’d post some pictures, but the camera is already packed for our trip to Mexico.

I’m always amazed how much work it is to get ready for an extended stay out of the country. One of the most difficult tasks is figuring out what books to bring. I invariably bring too many, but that is better than running out of material.

This will be my sixth trip to the Yucatan. There are more beautiful and exotic places in this world, but for me the Yucatan is special. A place I go to get my bearings and make sure I’m living true to my inner voice. In a post last year, I wrote:

Everyone should have a faraway place that speaks to them. A place they can return to again and again to take stock of their lives and renew their souls. A place both familiar, yet unfamiliar so that each trip brings new discoveries.

My place is Mexico. More specifically, the Yucatan Peninsula. But not Cancun. Cancun is manufactured⎯a pretend Mexico filled with resort hotels, mediocre meals and overpriced boutiques.

The Mexico I love is south and west of Cancun. Mayan villages like Sitilpech or Uayma with rows of casetas tucked behind whitewashed limestone walls and sheltered by citrus trees and flowering bushes. Where chickens, turkeys, and pigs wander across the road and scavenge along its edge. Where villagers busy themselves hand-washing clothes, carrying firewood, and making purchases. Where women dressed in huipiles sit crouched on wooden stools or logs, scoop dough from buckets, patting the masa into tortillas. Just like they've done for generations.

My first Christmas in Mexico was twenty years ago. I was invited to a meal with the Sosa family on Christmas Eve. For whatever reason, the family had already eaten or not eaten at all. My companion and I sat alone at the table in the dimly lit one room caseta.

Mr. Sosa cut henequen for a living. He would get up at four in the morning and ride his bike for miles out to distant fields. He walked with a severe limp, having been hit by a train on one of his early morning rides years earlier. Mrs. Sosa tended house in their dirt floor, straw roofed abode. She raised chickens and turkeys, which wandered at our feet, and cared for her three little girls.

Mrs. Sosa set a plate in from of me. It had what looked to me like a dark green square vegetable. Not wanting to be rude and ask what it was, I picked up my knife and fork and tried to cut it.

Mrs. Sosa laughed and then showed me how to unwrap the banana leave that encased my first Christmas tamale.

Have an enjoyable Christmas and New Year everyone. If you get bored and need something to cheer you, my son Bret has posted some comic strips he drew. He loved to hear what you think and apologizes ahead of time for the small print.

December 10, 2006

Trusting Strangers

Given my frequent travels to major cities, I am often asked by beggars on the streets for alms. I have thought of this much in the past year, particularly after writing this post suggesting we should look beggars in the eye to affirm their humanity.

This has been a difficult standard for me to live. For example, last week I was in Beverly Hills walking along Rodeo Drive, a polished street lined with clothing boutiques and shops headlined by leading fashion designers. I wasn’t shopping. I guess you could say I was people watching, trying to figure out who buys from these types of stores. Is it all celebrities or just tourists like me looking for celebrities? I admit this was a trivial experiment. On the other hand, I often get good ideas while performing the trivial.

Outside one of the shops, a black man sitting in a wheelchair asked for some change. I walked two paces past him, took a few dollars out of my pocket, turned and gave him the money.

I didn’t look him in the eye. I don’t think I looked at him at all. In this transaction, I was as indifferent as an ATM machine. I regret that. I have thought of it much since.

Earlier in the day in another part of LA, a woman stopped and asked me to read a number on her cell phone that she was having difficulty deciphering. This woman was poor, although not indigent. We walked a few steps together after I had read the number before she took the phone back. It was a short enough pause for her to convey to me, “I trust you. I know you won’t steal my phone”. I looked her in the eye.

The difference in these two interactions highlights why I have difficulty looking beggars in the eye.

Fear.

Fear of the beggar and fear of what those watching me give are thinking.

I have always feared strangers. Stranger danger was hammered into me as suburban middle class white kid attending a Catholic grade school. I don’t specifically remember being taught this, but somehow I developed a fear of those who were different. Those barriers began to break down after high school when I worked with mostly African Americans at a downtown hotel. I now respect difference, even seek it out because variety brings such a rich texture and meaning to life. Yet there is still a part of me that fears I will be mugged if I stop to give a few dollars to a beggar. When the woman demonstrated trust by handing me her cell phone, my innate fear dissipated.

I have also been taught to not judge if the person asking for help is deserving or not. I try to live by that standard, particularly if the request is small. Yet if you read the literature on begging, there is the school of thought that says we shouldn’t give to beggars. That the money will be used for drugs and alcohol. That there are sufficient soup kitchens and homeless shelters so beggars don’t need to beg. That if you give, you should give a gift card for food.

I hear those voices when I respond to a beggar’s request. In my mind I can feel the eyes of those silently chastising me for my charity. Chastising me for rewarding miscreant behavior and not solving the problem of poverty, only proliferating it. I also hear voices castigating me for being self-righteous. That I only give so others can see me give.

So there you have it. Fear of others causes me to hurry my street giving. Sanitize it. Pretend I am not really doing it by not looking at the person to whom I am giving.

I will strive to do better and not listen to the voices. I will look strangers in the eye and convey trust just like the lady with the cell phone did for me.

December 3, 2006

High School Years

Yesterday I drove with Camden and a few of his classmates to Arco, Idaho. Arco is a town of about 1,000 people in the middle of Idaho, depending on how you define middle. It is big enough to have its own Wikipedia entry, where I learned the town used to be called Root Hog. They should have named it Frozen Hog because as we drove higher and higher in elevation, the temperature kept dropping so that by the time we arrived within the city limits the car’s thermometer read -4 degrees Fahrenheit.

The purpose of the trip was to attend a regional Academic Decathalon (Acadeca) meeting. Acadeca, as its name would suggest, is a competition where schools compete in ten different academic subjects. Most of the events are written tests. There is also a speech and interview portion. Despite never having been to an Acadeca meeting, I was asked to be a judge for speeches and interviews.

I was paired with a fellow judge, who was also an Acadeca novice. We turned out to have much in common so we enjoyed the day chatting between speeches and interviews, at one point getting so engrossed in a conversation that we didn’t realize the next contestant had been waiting for fifteen minutes outside the room.

Judging speeches was interesting, but not nearly as enjoyable as the interview portion. High school students are not known for opening up to adults, particularly to complete strangers. Hence, it was fascinating to be handed a resume from a sixteen year old student and given ten minutes to question her about life.

One student spoke of her dream to attend college, but said she could only go if she got a scholarship. Otherwise, she would join the Air Force. I have nothing against the military, but I wonder how many students join because they don’t see any other way to get an education.

Another student was from Preston, Idaho⎯the infamous town from the movie Napoleon Dynamite. On her resume, this student listed she was a member of the Good Hands Club. In the movie, Napoleon Dynamite is a member The Happy Hands Club, an American sign language singing group (click here if you want to see or purchase a sculpture of Napoleon performing “The Rose”). Apparently, the Happy Hands Club has been in Preston for years, only it is known as the Good Hands Club. This student spoke of her experiences of being able to communicate with the deaf from what she learned at the Good Hands Club.

Our last interview was with a freshman with a lengthy list of clubs and activities on her resume. She spoke of going to bed at midnight and waking up a 3 AM to study. Clearly she was overcommitted and stressed, but spoke of recently joining the Mayor’s Youth Council.

Ten minutes is not very long. Too little time to give the advice I would liked to have given these students. Hopefully, they will find mentors that will listen to them for hours instead of minutes and guide them through some treacherous years. Jenn's recent post shows how difficult high school years can be.