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May 30, 2006

New Orleans Revisted

I am spending a few sultry days in New Orleans just in time to celebrate the beginning of hurricane season. Celebrating is not what they are doing in NOLA. Trembling is more like it. I was here in November and not much has changed. Row after row of houses still lie abandoned. Trash and debris sit piled on the curbs. I even saw a boat propped in the median of Earhart Blvd where it has rested for the past eight months as if waiting for the tide to come in and wash it out to sea. Bright blue remains a prominent roof color, given all the protective tarps standing in for missing shingles. This city is unprepared for the next hurricane because it is still shell shocked from the last one.

Through all this, the French Quarter with its debauchery and fine eating carries on. It’s a little more worn around the edges, cook times are slower at restaurants, and trash is stacked in the alleyways, but the food at K-Pauls (Chef Paul Prudhomme was actually there), Red Fish and other eateries is as delicious as ever. Comfort food for trying times.

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May 27, 2006

Idaho Wildflowers

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Sticky Geranium

Today it rained and rained, as if this were Ohio, not Idaho. Only here the wildflowers are prettier. This is a selection from our hill out back.

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Douglas' Wild Hyacinth

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Balsam Root

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Silvery Lupine

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May 16, 2006

Soloing

I don’t watch a lot of television, particularly at night, but I watched American Idol the past two weeks. The music is good, but what I find interesting is the same thing that fascinates me about Presidential debates; the excruciating pressure of the moment. I love to watch people attempt to deliver the performance of their lives in front of millions. Any slip up can ruin them. I cannot imagine the pressure.

All the while they sing or deliver a speech, a tiny voice screams in their head, issuing commands. It is the voice of failure. The voice that says you can’t do this, you shouldn’t be up here. Run! It’s like a secondary soundtrack that only the performer can hear. And when they listen too close to the voice inside, their concentration wanes and disaster strikes. They miss a note, or their voice wobbles, the nervousness sneaks out.

Harriet Rubin in her book Soloing, related Linda Amiel Burns' rules for soloists. Burns, a former cabaret singer, has mentored thousand of individuals on how to thrive in the spotlight. One of her rules is “master your material so it doesn’t stand in the way of your voice.”

To truly deliver a knockout performance, a singer or speaker needs to know their material so well that they can deliver it without thinking. The risk of this is it allows the tiny voice inside to scream louder. The key is to know your material so well that it is part of your very being, then instead of listening to the negative voice inside, you focus on what your song or speech means, how it touches your heart, how it has changed you. Then your true voice, your true self shines for all to see.

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May 10, 2006

Sweet Thai

I've decided my favorite thing about Thai food is the color. Such warm, pastel hues. Beautiful. I just had dinner at one of my favorite Thai restaurants, Galanga Thai in Tacoma, Washington. My tummy is happy with tasty halibut bathed in curry.

I had never given curry much thought until I went to Australia last year. It was a staple at most food courts. Now it is my new comfort food. And the best thing is my little Idaho town now has its first Thai restaurant. When we moved there five years ago, the restaurant selection in our town consisted of fast food and Tex Mex. Now we have Thai, sushi, and Hawaiian. Yeah for college towns.

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Driving Down a Chute

Everyone should occasionally get in a car and take a long drive alone. After ten delightful days touring Montana and Northern Idaho with my family, we parted ways and LaPriel and the kids headed back to our little Idaho town while I rented a car and drove from Coeur D’Alene, Idaho to Walla Walla, Washington.

I took what I thought was the scenic route, and the first part of the journey from Coeur D’Alene to Moscow was beautiful. Rolling hills, mountains, pine forests. In fact, I suspect the politicians who decided which confiscated Native American lands should be set aside for the Coeur D’Alene reservation had never been to Northern Idaho. Usually reservations are located on the ugliest, least productive scraps of land. The Coeur D’Alene reservation takes up prime real estate, which is why it is such a delight to drive through. It has been spared much of the strip development and billboard fest so common along U.S. highways.

The only manmade structure of any significance in the area is the Coeur D'Alene Casino. What is amazing about it is like many Native American casinos it’s in the middle of nowhere. You round a curve and suddenly there’s this huge building and parking lot full of cars staring at you. It’s like being on nature hike, turning the corner and stumbling across a moose or elk in your path. Okay, perhaps my analogy is a stretch, but then again casinos on reservations are so commonplace they almost seem like they were there before man.

If you have ever spoken to someone who grew up in the Mountain West and moved to the Eastern United States invariably they will tell you they love how green the East is with its leafy hardwoods, grasses and flowers, but it drives them crazy that they can’t see far into the distance because of all the trees. Westerners need vistas to calm their souls while Easterners are at peace with small, intimate views. Then there is the road from Lewiston, Idaho to Walla Walla, Washington, which I can only describe as a passage through a 200 mile long gulley. I believe a drive through there via US12 would frustrate most Easterners and Westerners. The hills close in on both sides of the highway, there are few trees, and I found myself constantly craning my neck trying to see over the crests. I knew there were mountains out there somewhere because of the timber trucks hauling three foot diameter logs. It was like driving down a chute. Apparently Lewis and Clark traveled this way on their way back home. It’s called the Forgotten Trail. I can see why. In speaking with some Walla Wallites this morning, they explained this gulley was formed when a large glacier dam broke up stream. They likened it to the plot of Ice Age 2. This area is a geologist's dream but for those seeking a scenic route, I would take a different course.

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May 6, 2006

Travel Takeaways

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We are almost a week into our vacation with no itinerary. We have found a travel rhythm that seems to accommodate both those who hate to be in the van too long and those that get restless staying in one spot. After a night in Salmon, Idaho, we spent two nights in Missoula, Montana, two nights in Kalispell, Montana and we just finished our first of two nights in Sandpoint, Idaho. The weather to date has been perfect. Sunny and in the sixties to low seventies.

What have we learned after a week on the road?

The Moon Travel Guide series is inferior to the Lonely Planet Series. I recognize travel guidebooks are heavily influenced by the author. I just find with Moon’s Montana and Idaho guidebooks I disagree with the author eight out of ten times. Plus they tend to leave out important details. For example, we stopped at Kootenai Falls west of Libby, Montana yesterday. The guidebook said the waterfall was just off the road. What it neglected to mention was it was a least a mile hike down steep, rocky paths to the falls. The hike didn’t bother us, but we saw an elderly couple struggling to keep their balance while clutching walking sticks and a family of five forced to carry their infant and a stroller along the boulder strewn path. Then again, the signage at the outset of the trail was equally as bad with no map showing where we were heading.

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Me climbing up from Kootenai Falls (the short way)

Missoula is the most attractive town in Montana. Not too small and not too large. The homes, particularly around the university are gorgeous, the weather is milder than where we live in Idaho, even though it is further North, the people are friendly and the mountains are beautiful.

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Deer in Glacier

The best time to visit National Parks is in May, right after the roads are opened for the season, but before most of the country knows they are. We spent a day in Glacier National Park. I rode my bike from the Apgar Visitors Center up to Avalanche Creek and had the road nearly to myself. We had a deer walk right up to us as if it wanted to be petted.

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Glacier Squirrel

Camden is turning into quite the photographer. Except for the top photo, all of the pictures on this post were taken by him.

We learned the real meaning of Cinco de Mayo. We stopped at a restaurant in Bonners Ferry and the Mexican owner told us the story of the holiday’s origin. Somehow even though I spent a Cinco de Mayo in Chiapas a number of years back, the details of this holiday alluded me. This woman spoke with such passion about the French invading Mexico after the two countries couldn’t come to an agreement on settling Mexico’s debts, and how the Mexicans had fought with such tenacity to overpower the French on Cinco de Mayo. She said Cinco de Mayo signifies what matters more than anything, even more than money or talent, is the desire and strength inside each of us.

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May 4, 2006

Museum Mash Up

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We visited an interesting museum today: the Miracle of America Museum in Polson, Montana. It is known as the Smithsonian of the West. It is like the Smithsonian only in that it has a lot of stuff. What is missing is any semblance of historical context. There are very few placards describing what is on display. It’s all there jumbled together as if that spot had been designated Montana’s dumping ground for anything old but still intact. Room after room of motorcycles, war paraphernalia, toys, vacuum cleaners, musical instruments, and lawnmowers. My favorite exhibit is pictured above. Five modes of transportation piled together. Where else could you find a helicopter sitting on top of a covered wagon and an ancient tractor?

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May 1, 2006

Idaho Animals

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We are two days into our vacation without an intinerary. The wildlife is abundant. We spotted the mountain blue birds at Gilmore, an abandoned mining town south of Salmon, Idaho. The mountain goats were on the cliffs along the Salmon River inside the Frank Church Wilderness of No Return. This is where we also found the petroglyphs.

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I once convinced a friend that here in Idaho in the spirit of Napoleon Dynamite we use llamas as pack animals to carry our gear, ride them like horses and when we tire of them we serve up llama steaks. None of that is true (at least I don't think it is), but there are a surprising number of domesticated llamas in the state, including the two that a woman was walking through the streets of Salmon.

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Llama greets Breanna

Our only mishap was the small boulder that tumbled down a cliff nearly missing our Odyssey.

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